Hi all, another copy of an older post being imported to our new shiny forum :)
If like me, you find yourself to be loosing the manual dexterity required to get in small areas without destroying a wax, I will bet you are wishing you had a tool for separating your core from your ring without all the PITA...
Well I use Brants arbor for my cutting and it occurred to me after seeing Leo's post on his cutter that it could not be so hard to do! This pictorial covers that bit of journey ;)
1: Find some nice extruded acrylic and a imperial bolt.. turn the acrylic blank in your lathe and glue the cut off bolt into it.. simple enough? No lock it into your 4 jaw chuck and simply mill a copy of Brants Arbor into the front of it! Thank you Colin for your help here!
2: screw that sucker down to a handy spot on your mill table, make sure it snot a place that your spindle assembly will crash into anything else.
3: drive to its dead centre (little spot in my case left from turning it) and svae X and Y and Z as a fixture offset in MACH.
4: Usage.. cut a regulr flip, followed by a regular rotary pass as per usual.
5: Move the ring over to the new acrylic fixture on the table, nice snug fit! Run some code to cut the fingersize, in my case i use the following recipe but you can use the circle cutting wizards in mach too or simply code a cutoff path in your favourite pathing application.
[QUOTE](Radius Fingersize)-(Radius Cutter) and replace the three sections marked in red with that result. the section marked in green is where you would set your depth.
My offset in mach is setup to X and Y being at the center of the hub and Z0 being at the top of the fixture, which is 6mm deep, so basically anything over z-3 will be cutting below the middle of the model. In this case z-5 which is 2mm below the center of the model, easily cutting through the supports.
G01 Z-5.000 F150.0
G03 Y-6.8000 I0.0000 J0.0000
Y6.8000 I0.0000 J0.0000
6: and she is done!
Thanks for reading the full pictorial and I hope it helps you in some way,